Open-End vs. Carded vs. Combed Cotton: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to cotton fabric, not all fibers are created equal. Terms like open-end, carded, and combed refer to how the cotton is processed before it’s spun into yarn—and each method impacts the final fabric’s softness, strength, cost, and appearance. Whether you're designing a premium tee or sourcing bulk blanks, knowing the difference can help you make smarter choices.

Open-end cotton, also known as rotor-spun cotton, is produced using a faster, more cost-efficient method. Instead of aligning fibers into long, smooth strands, the fibers are essentially "tangled" together. This results in a coarser texture and slightly bulkier feel. It’s commonly used in budget-friendly apparel and workwear, where durability matters more than softness or finesse.

Carded cotton goes through a mechanical carding process that untangles and roughly aligns the fibers, removing some impurities. The result is a more uniform yarn than open-end, but it still contains shorter fibers and has a slightly fuzzy texture. It’s softer than open-end and is often used in everyday garments where comfort and affordability both matter.

Combed cotton takes it a step further. After carding, it’s passed through fine combs that remove the shortest fibers and align the remaining ones more precisely. This creates a smoother, stronger, and more luxurious yarn. Combed cotton is less likely to pill, has a softer hand feel, and is the go-to choice for premium products where quality and finish are top priorities.

From Field to Fabric: How Cotton Becomes the Clothes We Wear

Cotton is one of the oldest and most widely used natural fibers in the world, but few people understand the process that transforms it from a fluffy white boll on a plant into the soft fabric in their favorite t-shirt or pair of jeans. It all starts in cotton fields, where plants are typically grown in warm climates like the southern United States, India, and parts of Africa. Once the bolls mature, they’re harvested—either by hand or machine—and sent to gins, where the cotton fibers are separated from seeds, dirt, and stems.

After ginning, the clean cotton fibers are compressed into large bales and shipped to textile mills. At this stage, the fiber is carded, a mechanical process that disentangles and aligns the cotton strands to prepare them for spinning. Carded cotton can then be combed (for higher quality) or spun directly into yarn using high-speed machines. Spinning twists the fibers together, strengthening them into continuous threads that will eventually be used to make fabric.

The spun cotton yarn is next woven or knitted into fabric, depending on the end use. Woven cotton is used for shirts, trousers, and bed linens, while knitted cotton is popular in t-shirts, activewear, and undergarments for its stretch and softness. After weaving or knitting, the fabric undergoes finishing processes—washing, bleaching, dyeing, and pre-shrinking, among others—to enhance its appearance, feel, and performance. This is also when specific treatments, like softening or wrinkle resistance, may be applied.

From there, the cotton fabric is ready to be cut and sewn into garments. For something that feels so simple and familiar, cotton undergoes a complex, global journey—one that blends agriculture, engineering, chemistry, and craft. As consumers grow more curious about where their clothing comes from, understanding this lifecycle helps connect the dots between the earth, the supply chain, and what we choose to wear every day.

Thread Size: Why It Matters More Than You Think

When it comes to garment construction, thread is often overlooked—but it plays a critical role in how a piece looks, wears, and lasts. One of the most important variables? Thread size.

Thread size determines both the strength and the visual impact of a seam. Heavier threads (higher tex numbers) are used in applications like denim, outerwear, and leather goods—where durability and topstitch visibility matter. Lighter threads (lower tex numbers) are more appropriate for fine wovens, knits, and lightweight garments, where subtlety and flexibility are key. Using the wrong thread size can lead to puckered seams, broken stitches, or weakened construction over time.

As more consumers shift toward quality and long-lasting goods—especially in the movement back to American-made craftsmanship—details like thread size are no longer just a factory concern. They’re part of what defines a truly well-made garment.

Why Engineered Cutting Makes All the Difference in Garment Quality

Engineered cutting isn’t just about making the most of fabric—it’s about precision, consistency, and design intent. At The Massing Group, we treat cutting as a technical craft, not just a step in the process. Every cut is guided by pattern alignment, fabric grain, shrinkage tolerance, and the vision behind the garment. When executed properly, engineered cutting ensures that each piece fits the way it was intended—clean, balanced, and true to spec.

This level of detail becomes especially important when dealing with plaids, stripes, directional fabrics, or garments that require symmetrical seam matching. A poorly aligned cut can throw off an entire collection, leading to misaligned prints, warped silhouettes, and wasted materials. With engineered cutting, patterns are carefully placed to maintain visual harmony, reduce distortion during sewing, and ensure efficient fabric utilization.

For brands that value quality and repeatable results, engineered cutting is a non-negotiable. At The Massing Group, we use both manual techniques and automated cutting systems to uphold consistency from sample to bulk. Whether you’re developing a tailored shirt or a technical outerwear piece, precision at this stage sets the foundation for everything that follows.

The Return to American Craft: Why More Brands Are Manufacturing in the U.S.

The Shift Toward American-Made Apparel

After decades of offshoring, the garment industry is seeing a return to its roots. Global disruptions, rising overseas costs, and increased scrutiny over labor practices are forcing brands to rethink their supply chains. At the same time, American consumers are becoming more conscious—choosing to support U.S.-based businesses over mass-produced imports. Sustainability, quality, and transparency have become non-negotiables. The fast fashion model is giving way to slower, more intentional manufacturing. This is where The Massing Group comes in.

Why The Massing Group Is Leading the Way in U.S. Garment Manufacturing

Based in Los Angeles, The Massing Group partners with brands that value craftsmanship, consistency, and ethical manufacturing. We provide full-package development, sampling, and production under one roof—allowing fashion labels to scale without sacrificing quality. In a climate where small batch manufacturing, rapid prototyping, and direct collaboration are key, domestic production offers more control and agility than overseas factories. More than ever, Made in USA is not just a label—it's a statement of values. Our team helps brands build those values into every stitch.

From Sketch to Stitch: Understanding the Garment Development Process

What Is Garment Development?

Garment development is the behind-the-scenes foundation of the fashion industry. It’s the process of turning a creative idea into a wearable product, and it involves far more than just sketching and sewing. From creating tech packs and sourcing fabric to producing prototypes and fitting on models, development is where the groundwork for quality, fit, and function is laid. Whether you’re an emerging brand or a global label, this stage is critical in setting up a product for success.

The Key Steps in a Standard Development Cycle

The development process typically begins with design intent—sketches, inspiration, and reference garments. From there, a tech pack is created: a blueprint that details measurements, materials, construction methods, and more. Fabric and trim sourcing often runs in parallel, as does pattern making. Once a pattern is finalized, a first sample is sewn, tested, and fitted. Most products go through multiple revisions before reaching final approval. While every brand has its own rhythm, the core of development is the same: communication, precision, and iteration.

Why American Manufacturing Matters Now More Than Ever

In recent years, the global supply chain has shown its vulnerabilities — from delays and shortages to inconsistent quality. More brands are starting to recognize the value of keeping production close to home. At The Massing Group, we’ve long believed in the power and promise of American manufacturing. Today, it’s no longer just a patriotic decision — it’s a smart business one.

Consumers are becoming more intentional. They care about where and how their products are made, and they’re asking the right questions: Who made this? Were they treated fairly? Is it built to last? Choosing to manufacture in the USA answers those questions with confidence. It means higher-quality garments, better working conditions, shorter lead times, and a lighter environmental footprint. As the fashion industry shifts away from disposable, trend-chasing models, American-made goods stand out — not just for their craftsmanship, but for their values.

Piece Dye vs. Garment Dye: What’s the Difference and Why It Matters

In the world of textile manufacturing, the way color is applied to fabric can dramatically affect both the look and feel of the final garment. Two of the most common methods—piece dyeing and garment dyeing—each offer distinct advantages, and choosing the right one depends on your brand’s aesthetic goals and performance needs. At The Massing Group, we guide clients through both processes to ensure their product vision is fully realized.

Piece dyeing refers to dyeing the fabric in bulk before it’s cut and sewn. This approach is ideal for achieving consistency in color, especially for large production runs or when matching exact Pantone values is critical. Garment dyeing, on the other hand, involves dyeing the fully constructed garment. This results in more nuanced, washed-down tones, often with slight variations that give each piece character—a favorite for brands seeking a vintage or lived-in look.

At The Massing Group, we specialize in both methods and help brands select the best approach based on fabric type, target finish, and timeline. Whether you're aiming for tonal precision or rich, dimensional texture, understanding the dyeing process is key to achieving the right outcome. We're proud to offer both under one roof—because when form meets function, great garments are made.